Amigurumi Pears Free Pattern

#amigurumi #freepattern #freepatternamigurumi #crochettoppattern #crochet #crochetpattern #amigurumipears #crochetpears
What does amigurumi means?
The word Amigurumi comes from Japanese. The Japanese call handicrafts knitted with crochet and needle as Ami. The Japanese call the toys that are filled with objects such as fibers or cotton as Nuigurumi. The word Amigurumi is derived as a combination of these two words.

Amigurumi knitting techniques are very easy. You can find many handcrafts prepared with these techniques on my site. What is Amigurumi for beginners in Amigurumi handwork? How to knit amigurumi? In this blog, where you can find the answers to the questions with pictures, you will be able to learn about Amigurumi in all details.

I share in this blog are amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs, amigurumi fish, amigurumi unicorn, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi parrot, amigurumi giraffe, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi bunnies, amigurumi cows, amigurumi sheeps, amigurumi bees, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi snakes, amigurumi mice, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi pumpkins, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi owls, amigurumi cartoon characters, amigurumi twetters, amigurumi caterpillars and more …

Also I’m sharing new amigurumi free patterns every day.
Todays daily new amigurumi free crochet pattern is pears
I want to give you some informations about this pattern ;

Terminology
ch chain
invdec invisible decrease Note: If you prefer, you may use a standard sc2tog decrease in place of each invdec.
sc single crochet (double crochet for UK/Aus)
sl st slip stitch
st stitch
You will need…
E US/3.5mm crochet hook
Small quantity of worsted weight yarn in green, yellow, light brown or red, and dark brown or black (for the stalk)
Stitch marker
Yarn needle to weave in ends
Polyester fibrefill stuffing
Optional: blush makeup and a large makeup brush
Notes
Do not join at the end of each round; rounds are worked in continuous spirals.
Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. Move the marker up each time you start a new round.

Pear
worked from top down
With a pear-coloured yarn, make a magic ring, ch 1.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 st)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 st)
Rnd 3: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st) three times. (15 st)
Rnd 4: sc in each st around. (15 st)
Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st) three times. (18 st)
Rnds 6-9: sc in each st around. (18 st)
Rnd 10: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st) six times. (24 st)
Rnd 11: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st) six times. (30 st)
Rnds 12-13: sc in each st around. (30 st)
Rnd 14: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st) six times. (36 st)
Rnds 15-17: sc in each st around. (36 st)
Rnd 18: (invdec, sc in next 4 st) six times. (30 st)
Rnd 19: sc in each st around. (30 st)
Rnd 20: (invdec, sc in next 3 st) six times. (24 st)
Rnd 21: sc in each st around. (24 st)
Rnd 22: (invdec, sc in next 2 st) six times. (18 st)
Rnd 23: (invdec, sc in next st) six times. (12 st). Stuff pear through hole, making sure to push the stuffing right up to the tip of the pear.
Rnd 24: invdec six times. (6 st). Cut the yarn, leaving a long (approx 12″/30cm) yarn end.

Stalk
With brown or black yarn, ch 7.
Row 1: sl st in 2nd chain from hook and in each remaining chain. (6 st)

Note: I like to work into the back bumps of the chain, but you can work into the chain normally if you prefer.

Cut yarn, leaving a long (approx 12″/30cm) yarn end. Draw end through last loop and pull tight to fasten off.

Finishing
Using a yarn needle and the long yarn end from the pear, close up the remaining hole at the bottom of the pear. Pass the yarn end through the pear, coming out somewhere along its side. Draw the yarn tight, and snip the end close to the pear. The yarn end should retract back inside the pear after it is cut.

Using a yarn needle and the long yarn end from the stalk, pass the yarn through the pear from top middle to bottom middle (you’ll have to squash the pear to get the needle all the way through!), so the base of the stalk sits over the magic ring at the top of the pear.

Make 3 small overlapping stitches at the bottom of the pear, to form an asterisk shape.

Pass the yarn end back up through the pear to the top, then pull the yarn tighter so that the bottom of the pear is drawn up slightly to help flatten the base.

The top of the pear may have been squashed down when you tightened the yarn. If so, insert the yarn needle under a few stitches at the top and pull up to lift the top of the pear back into shape.

Knot the yarn end and the starting tail from the stalk together, then thread both ends onto the yarn needle and pass them through the pear, coming out somewhere along its side. Draw the yarn tight, and snip the ends close to the pear. The yarn ends should retract back inside the pear after they are cut.

Squeeze and squash the pear to redistribute the stuffing inside and coax the pear back into its perfect shape.

Optional: blushed pear effect

To give your pear a realistic ripe-and-juicy glow, load up a large makeup brush with blush makeup, and pounce the colour onto one side of the pear. Keep it as a subtle shading, or build up the colour with additional blush.

Note: The blush colour obviously won’t stand up to a lot of playing, or washing, so keep this addition for a purely ornamental pear, not a toy!

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