Amigurumi Alfonso The Farmer Boy Free Pattern

#amigurumi #freepattern #freepatternamigurumi #crochettoppattern #crochet #crochetpattern #amigurumiboy #crochetboy
What does amigurumi means?
The word Amigurumi comes from Japanese. The Japanese call handicrafts knitted with crochet and needle as Ami. The Japanese call the toys that are filled with objects such as fibers or cotton as Nuigurumi. The word Amigurumi is derived as a combination of these two words.

Amigurumi knitting techniques are very easy. You can find many handcrafts prepared with these techniques on my site. What is Amigurumi for beginners in Amigurumi handwork? How to knit amigurumi? In this blog, where you can find the answers to the questions with pictures, you will be able to learn about Amigurumi in all details.

I share in this blog are amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs, amigurumi fish, amigurumi unicorn, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi parrot, amigurumi giraffe, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi bunnies, amigurumi cows, amigurumi sheeps, amigurumi bees, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi snakes, amigurumi mice, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi pumpkins, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi owls, amigurumi cartoon characters, amigurumi twetters, amigurumi caterpillars and more …

Also I’m sharing new amigurumi free patterns every day.
Todays daily new amigurumi free crochet pattern is boy
I want to give you some informations about this pattern ;

Alfonso the amigurumi farmer boy is a quick, cute, and customizable doll with overalls perfect for fall-themed decor or gifts. Dress him up as a scarecrow or a farmer or make him a mini-me for a boy who loves overalls. The possibilities are endless with this stash buster, so get started on the free crochet pattern now!

Abbreviations (US):
MR: Magic ring
Sc: Single crochet
Ch: Chain
Sl st: Slip stitch
Yo: Yarn over
Hdc: Half double crochet
Dc: Double crochet
Inc: Increase
Dec: Decrease
Sts: Stitches
FO: Fasten off
(…) x: Repeat stitches within parentheses … times
Sk: Skip one stitch
FSC: Foundation Single Crochet (tutorial here)

Tools and Materials:

2.5-3.0mm crochet hook
Tapestry needle and scissors
Polyester fiberfill stuffing
6.0 mm safety eyes
Blocking materials (optional)
Foam mats, pins, and steam iron
Fabric glue for hair
Schachenmayr Catania in Creme (<1 skein)
Sport weight beige yarn for skin—you can swap for any other skin color
Schachenmayr Catania in Leinen (<1 skein)
Sport weight light brown yarn for shirt and patches
Schachenmayr Catania in Royal  (<1 skein)
Sport weight dark blue for overalls
Schachenmayr Catania in Loewenzahn (<1 skein);
Sport weight yellow yarn for hair

Lion Brand DIYarn (scrap)

Worsted weight dark brown yarn for boots and also for eyebrows (this can be swapped for brown embroidery thread)
Small blue buttons (optional)
Technical Notes:

Crochet in continuous spiral rounds unless otherwise specified, and use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
Use sewing pins to secure limbs of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Legs: (begin in dark brown yarn, then light brown) x2
R1: sc6 in MR (6 sts)
R2: inc x6 (12 sts)
R3-4 (2 rounds) sc all around (12 sts)
R5: (BLO) dec, sc2, hdc dec x2, sc2, dec (8 sts)
R6-8 (3 rounds): sc all around (8 sts)
Switch to light brown yarn
R9-14 (6 rounds): sc all around (8 sts)
Invisible finish off. Make another leg identically but do not finish off or cut the yarn. Stuff both legs lightly, using the back of crochet hooks or chopsticks to push fiberfill inside.
Connect legs: sc4, ch2, sc all around (8 sts), sc 2 in the chains between the legs, sc 4 (20 sts total)

Continue from connected legs to make body:

Body: (in light brown yarn)
R1-9 (9 rounds): sc all around (20 sts)
Begin stuffing.
R10: (sc3, dec) x4 (16 sts)
R11: sc all around (16 sts)
Finish stuffing using the back of crochet hook to push fiberfill in, and finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Head: (in any skin colored yarn)

R (round) 1: sc6 in MR (6 sts)
R2: inc x6 (12 sts)
R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
R4: (sc2, inc) x6 (24 sts)
R5: (sc3, inc) x6 (30 sts)                                                                               
R6: (sc4, inc) x6 (36 sts)                                                                          
R7: (sc5, inc) x6 (42 sts)
R8-16 (9 rounds): Sc all around (42 sts)
If you wish to, place 6.0 mm safety eyes between round 10 and 11 (middle of head), 7 stitches apart. However, I suggest placing safety eyes at the very end if you don’t mind not being able to secure the safety eyes to be able to arrange the face more easily.

R17: (sc5, dec) x6 (36 sts)
R18: (sc4, dec) x6 (30 sts)
R19: (sc3, dec) x6 (24 sts)
Finish stuffing.   
R20: (sc2, dec) x6 (18 sts)
R21: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)         
R22: (dec) x6 (6 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving a short tail. Using a needle, thread the yarn through all 6 stitches in the last round, and pull it tight so the opening closes like a drawstring bag. Finish off and weave in the end. Sew head to body.

Arms: (beginning in skin colored yarn, then light brown) x2

R1: sc6 in MR (6 sts)
R2-4 (3 rounds): sc all around (6 sts)
Switch to light brown yarn
R5-14 (10 rounds): sc all around (6 sts)
Stuff lightly. Invisible finish off and weave in ends, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another one identically and attach arms to the left and right sides of the body.

Overalls pant leg: (using 2.5 mm hook in dark blue)

R1: sc20 in MR (20 sts)
R2-7 (8 rounds): sc all around (20 sts)
As you can see, I used thinner yarn for the overalls which resulted in more rows being needed for the pants. If you want your doll to look how it is pictured (right), then use yarn one size down and follow these steps:
R2-14 (13 rounds): sc all around (20 sts)
Invisible finish off and weave in the end. Make another pant leg identically, but do not finish off.
Connect the pant legs: beginning on one pant leg, sc all around, then sc all around the other leg (total 40 sts). Pull the pants onto the doll’s legs and continue working with the pants on the doll body.

Joined pant legs:
R1-2 (2 rounds): sc all around (40 sts)
R3: (sc6, dec) x5 (35 sts)
R4: (sc5, dec) x5 (30 sts)
If you are using thinner yarn, follow these steps:
R5: sc all around 30sts)
R5: (sc4, dec) x5 (25 sts)
Invisible finish off, weave in end.
Overalls bib: (worked in turned rows)
R (row) 1: FSC 6, chain and turn (6 sts)
R2-5 (4 rows): sc to the end, chain and turn (6 sts)
Finish off.
Make straps:
Chain 14, sew to the front of the bib. Sew the bib to the front of the pants and the straps to the back of the pants

Hair: (use hair color yarn)

The hair is going to be built from a circle 24 stitches around, with hair strands coming from that circle. If you refer to the diagram, you can see that the circle is split into 2 sections (A and B). We will begin at the beginning of section A, which comprises 6 of the 24 stitches of the circle, and move on to section B, completing the circle around with the remaining 18 stitches.


R1: sc 6 in MR (6 sts)
R2: (inc x6 (12 sts)
R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
R4: (sc2, inc) x6 (24 sts)
Invisible finish off, and weave in the end. Make standing crochet stitch anywhere in the round to begin crocheting hair.
Section A:
Strand 1-6 (6 strands): ch7, sc6 back (beginning from second chain from hook), slst in next stitch
Section B:
Strands 7-24 (18 strands): ch10, sc9 back (beginning from second chain from hook), slst in next stitch

Cut yarn and weave in the end. To create straight hair, block hair by pinning it down on a foam mat and using a steam iron and leaving it overnight to dry. If you don’t have a steam iron, you can just soak it in water and lay it out to dry. Different blocking methods can be found here. After blocking, pin the circle on top of the doll’s head.  Section A forms the bangs, and Section B is the sides and back. Pin down each of the hair strands and create texture by putting the strands directly in front of the doll’s face over the hair on either side. Either sew or glue the hair down to the head with craft glue.

Patches: (in light brown yarn, worked in turned rows)

R (row) 1: FSC 3 (3 sts)
R2-3 (2 rows): sc3, chain and turn (3 sts)
Finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing. Make two and sew onto overalls in random positions.

Final touches:

Insert 6.0mm safety eyes between rounds 10-11, 7 sts apart
Embroider a nose one row below the eye line, covering two stitches.
Embroider eyebrows directly above the eyes using one ply of brown yarn (pull yarn apart into separate plies) or embroidery thread. The eyebrows are diagonals, 3 stitches across and one up. The bottom of the eyebrow is 3 rows above the eye (and the top of the eyebrow is 4 rows above).

Embroider pink lines one row below eyes (across two stitches) for blush.
Sew small buttons onto the bottoms of the suspender straps.
Sew on small patches on the overalls.

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